Tag Archives: 印度

印度遊記(一) – 初到貴境

 India street

潮流外判工作與發展中國家﹐我公司也不甘後人﹐在印度開設了分公司。我部門今年度的開發計劃﹐在北美人手不足的情況下﹐迫於無奈要與印度合作。其他部門早已見識過印度人的工作效率﹐為免出亂子影響整個計劃的進度﹐老細決定派人去印度看管兼訓練印度員工。在一輪威迫利誘下和討價還價後﹐我坐上了飛往印度的航班﹐在印度矽谷班格羅(Bangalore)生活了整整兩個月。

若果不是公司出機票半推半拉﹐我大慨永遠也不選擇去印度旅遊。就算如果去印度也會跟旅行團﹐那只不過在走馬看花地參觀名勝古蹟﹐不會在當地生活結交朋友。這次工幹是一個很好的文化體驗之族﹐讓我深入接觸一個完全陌生的文化。雖然我對異國文化沒有多大興趣﹐儘管我沒有主動去探索獵奇﹐但每天印度人當中生活﹐耳渲目染還是學到不少印度經驗。這一系列文章﹐是我總結過去兩個月的所見所聞﹐以第三者的角度去看印度這個國家。

相對於加拿大的地理位置﹐印度正好位於在地球的背面。印度的時差是標準時間加五個半小時﹐時區齊齊整整加減一個小時不是很好嗎﹐不知那個笨蛋決定要多三十分鐘﹐於是北美總部與印度分公司的電話會議﹐時不時大家會弄錯時間。從加拿大坐飛機去印度﹐基本上要飛半個地球﹐往東飛或往西飛路程也差不多﹐可以選擇在歐洲轉機或在亞洲轉機。兩段路程我也坐過﹐一次經德國﹐一次經新加坡﹐感覺上飛亞洲舒服些。兩程來回加起來﹐等於環遊了世界兩次。下個月港龍開直航飛往班格羅﹐在香港轉機停幾天當然是最好的安排了。

未去印度前﹐我一直以為印度人理所當然地說印度語﹐最多好像中國不同地方有不同方言。原來印度語只是印度東北地區人的母語﹐西北﹐西南和東南地區的印度人﹐各自擁有自己的語言和文字。除了這四大語言外﹐還有數不清的小數方言。班加羅是在印度南部說的是Kanata語﹐路牌指示甚至政府全用當地言語。我有些印度同事從外省來班加羅做事﹐因為看不懂用當地文字寫的巴士路線﹐就沒有辨法坐巴士了。印度的學校主要用本土語言教學﹐但也會教授印度語和英文。印度語是國內的共通語言﹐至於英文則是國際性共通語言﹐所以受過高等教育的印度人﹐很多會懂得三文三語﹐比我們香港人的兩文三語還厲害。不過印度也有很多文盲﹐他們就只懂說當地語言﹐連說印度語也成問題。外國財經雜誌常說印度人英語水平好﹐所以有外國投資的優勢。印度會英語好的人也僅限於中上階層﹐一般的低下階層懂得的英語﹐絕對比香港中文中學的學生還差。

踏出機艙的那一刻﹐印度已經給我留下一個壞印象。空氣質素很差﹐汽車廢氣的污染和建築工程的沙塵﹐讓人感到呼吸困難﹐空氣還有一陣異味﹐也不知是垃圾味還是咖喱味。機場設施破爛狹小擠迫﹐班加羅是一個六百萬人的城市﹐飛機場卻只有兩個閘口。排隊過了海關後﹐取行李的地方有很多苦力上前要替你搬行李。千萬不要給他們搬你的行李﹐他們會開天殺價當外國人是羊牯。班加羅機場的行李輸送帶設計失敗﹐在一端隔著破爛的木版﹐你可以看見工人把行李從拖車御下。另一瑞的迴轉輸送帶則壞了﹐行李輸送到盡頭就會跌出輸送帶﹐掉進地上那堆行李當中。乘客要麼眼明手快﹐在行李走完輸送帶前認領﹐要麼就要往行李堆中尋寶。千軍萬馬間總算認領了行李﹐步出機場正式踏足印度。印度始終是很典型的落後國家﹐給我的感覺是混亂和污糟。我沒有到過大陸旅行﹐所以無從比較﹐不過想太慨不可能比印度更差吧。

Back to civilization

Today I arrived at the Vancouver International Airport and ended my two months exiles in India. I am glad to come back to civilization, breathing in the unpolluted air of British Columbia. It is an eye opening experience. I probably will never go to India as my travel destination. For better or for worse, my perspective to see the world is forever changed. It may take me a few days or maybe a few weeks to consolidate my thoughts about the Indian trip before my ideas show up in my blog.

On my way back from India, I stop over in Hong Kong for 3 days. I managed to get a lot of things done in merely 3 days. Every day is fully packed. On top of seeing my friends and relatives, I even manage to do a little bit shopping and check out the latest Gundam arcade game with an inmersive 180 degree cockpit, the only one outside of Japan.

Unfortunately, my schedule collide with the Olympic torch relay. I had to go to Tsim Sha Tsui on the day of the torch relay and suffer from the traffic mess caused by all the road blocks. I wonder how much money and productivity is lost due to the torch relay. The relay suppose to be full of famous athletes, movie stars and singers, so the delay is tolerable in exchange for an interesting show. However, the relay turns out to be a show of boring old politicians. Can I ask for a refund for the time I lost?

Ooty – escape from Indian summer heat

Yet another tea farm

On my last weekend in India, I went to Ooty with Mark and Jenny. Ooty is about 300km from Bangalore, it locates in the Nilgiri region, which is highest mountain in South India. The temperature is much cooler than Bangalore, I almost feel like I am in Vancouver. The Nilgiri is famous for tea plantation and its beautiful scenery.

We don’t want to take any days off from work, so itinerary of the trip is tightly packed. We left work on Friday and drove to Mysore to stay over a night. The next morning, we woke up at 4:30a.m. to see wild life in the Bandipur Nation Park, which is on the way to Ooty. There are only two time slot per to see wild animals, either in dawn or in dust. Animals will no roam around in the afternoon to avoid the baking sun. We were smart enough to make reservation, we couldn’t get on the jeep tour. We could only join the lame bus tour. I was looking forward to see some wild tiger in action. I end up only seeing herds of deers, bisons, a few elephants and a peacock opening its tail. Since there ain’t much to see, we left the national park at 8a.m. and continue our journey.

Wild binson staring at us On the way to Ooty A herd of deers

We arrived at Ooty after 2 hours of ride on a scenic route. After having a brunch, we check in to our hotel. Without doubt, the resort hotel in Ooty is the best hotel I have stayed in India. It is modified form an grand manor from the Colonial days. The resort is located up in the mountain, over looking the tea farms and villages in the valley down below. We probably got the previous master bedroom, it is a suite with a huge living room, bedroom, walk-in closet and toilet. The view from our room’s front door is pretty remarkable. It leads to a garden with the valley view. It almost feels like a scene in a movie that you can get up, open the door and take a breath of fresh mountain air and enjoy the view.

Zest resort hotel at Ooty View outside the door of our room Farms and villages in the valley.

We took a cycling tour in the afternoon. The tour is fun and exciting. The cruising the country road among the tea farms is pretty relaxing. Pass through the Ooty town center is quite an unique adventure. Riding among the tuck-tucks and crazy Indian traffic is as exciting as roller coaster. The ride is one way down hill, we took a tuck-tuck back to the hotel when we reach the bottom of the valley. Jenny does not know how to ride a bicycle, so she ride on the back sat of the motorbike of the tour guide. I wonder which one is more scary in Indian traffic , cycling in down hill or riding on the back of a motorbike without helmet. We hop on the car and visited a few other tourist spots in Ooty after cycling tour, but none of them worths any mentioning.

Downhill biking in India traffic Jenny riding a motorbike following us Tea farm Tea farm of King Mysore Riding tuck tuck back to the hotel

We went to the major tourist attraction in Ooty is the Nilgiri toy train next morning. The toy train is the steepest rail in Asia running on narrow gauge. It links Ooty, which is at the top of the mountain, to the town at the foot of the mountain. The train ride is about 2 hours to the Coonor, which is half way in the mountain. Once again, we forgot to make any reservation, but this time it turns out to be a wonderful experience. We bought the unserved coach class ticket from the ticket counter and have to line up and ride the train with other Indians. Luckily we manage to get window seats but riding coach class it is totally different from riding first class.

Really long line up. 5 rupee (1 cent CAD$) for a 2 hours train ride, it's even cheaper than walking. The toy train engine Other people have to stand. Green flag

The ticket is really cheap, only Rs 5 (about 10 cents CAD$), it is probably the cheapest transportation I ever had. We joke that the 2 hours train ride is even cheaper than walking for 2 hours if you take the wear and tear of your shoes into account. The beauty of view along the rail line beyond description of words or photos. I guess not even a high definition video camera can capture its aura, the only way to fully appreciate the experience is to take the toy train in person. The view looks so nice that I could even fool some one say the photos are taken in Europe.

Going into a tunnel Passing by tea farms Endless tea farms The rail overlooking the valley. Little creek. Tracks going up hill

Nilgiri region is famous for its tea plantation. No one would leave Ooty without visiting the tea factory and tea musuem, and buy some tea as gifts for friends back home. The tea factory tour is quite very educational. I learned how tea is made from newly picked tea leave to ready to brew tea bags. The souvenirs shop is a bit let down, although the tea are nicely packaged, I am sure those tea are not the top quality.

Tea factory and tea museum Tea grinding machine Aluminum drum to roast the tea leaves Tea sorting machine

The ride form Ooty to Bangalore is long and boring, we arrived the guest house late at night. I slept through most of the way, so except the occasion urge for washroom break, the long ride does not bother me much. This week’s Ooty trip and last week’s Hampi trip really changes my impression of India. When I first arrive, the mess in Bangalore already gave me a very bad impression. The Goa trip didn’t count because it is a tourist town tailored for foreigners. My visit to New Delhi and Arga further confirm my impression. Taj Mahal is very neat, but it’s from the India three centuries ago, I only see annoying hawkers, garbage piled villages and Hindu temples with stupid rules in my trip. The final straw is the Mysore trip in which we got ripped off not once by twice. I decide I will never trust any Indian strangers and nothing in Indian is interesting even to worth a visit. However, after I met the simple villagers and see th ebeautiful scenery in Hampi and Ooty, my impression is changed. I think India is still some what worth traveling, just you have to stay away form those tourist traps.

Some thoughts about the Bangalore trip

I have only one week left in my  Bangalore assignment.  I started days remaining counter on my white board in my cubicle, counting the days that I can go home and see Pat.  I swear I will never come back to this country, unless there is another work assignment with enough incentive.  Staying in India for two months is definitely  over my tolerance level, even with a 2 weeks break back home after the first month.  I think the maximum  duration  to work in India is 3 weeks.  2 weeks is too short, you couldn’t get much done.  3 weeks is just right and you have two weekends in between to do some traveling.

Mark asked me if I can go back in time, whether I still sign up to the Bangalore trip.  I think the first month is very critical.  Knowing the Indian team, ramp them up, get them on the same page as the Canada team will make my life down the road much easier.  However, the second month is a waste of time.  Yes, face to face mentoring is nice to have, but I can do it over the phone with net meeting too.  I don’t have to be physically present in Bangalore.  Face to face meeting is more efficient, but inefficient of traffic in Bangalore and sickness from the pollution out weighted whatever benefit we gain from face to face meeting.  I can do a lot conference calls using the 3 hours I stuck in Bangalore traffic every day.

Having a nice meal after work is the only way to keep my sanity.  I have no choice but the crappy curry at PMC canteen for lunch.  If I have to eat equally crappy curry for dinner as well, I would rather jump in front of a tuck tuck and kill myself.  The real benefit for my 2nd month in Bangalore is the weekend travels.  We planed weekend trip for every weekend.  I have been to lots of places in India and get to see the real India, the beautiful India I would enjoy, instead of the garbage piling India I encounter every day.  It would be too sad if you have to spend your weekend in Bangalore with nothing to do.

So long Bangalore, so long India.  6 days left and counting…

Hampi – the hidden jewel of India

Ruin of ancient market

Hampi is probably one of the hidden treasure of India.  It was the capital of the largest Indian kingdom in 14th century.  It is glorious day, its has over half a million population.  Then the Muslim rulers came and destroy everyone.  Now it is an ancient huge ruin covering an area of 75 km square with just a few small farm villages.  Hampi is far away from any major travel route so it is not well known to most travelers.  Hampi only got a paragraph in my tourist book and a couple pages in the Lonely Planet.  With its status as a world heritage site and massive preservation project on the way, I think it will transform itself into the second biggest attraction in India after Taj Mahal.

Trees and rice field  Ruins of ancient market Water thank in the market 

To get to Hampi, we have to take an overnight train from Bangalore.  Riding trains in India is quite an experience.  Although we are riding first class, things are not quite right.  The cabin is OK, at least we got clean sheet and pillow case.  The toilet is a hole go straight down to the tracks.  You can feel the wind when coming up when you are doing your business.  You are not allow to go to toilet when the train stops at train station, otherwise what comes out of you will stay on the tracks.  The train door is not locked, so you can stick your head out and get some fresh air.  It seems quite scary at first, but after a while you use to the open door, you will find it very enjoyable.

Trees and rice field Ox cart waiting to cross the rail crossing. The train door is not locked.  I can stick my head out and enjoy the ride.

The natural beauty of Hampi is stunning.  The whole area is scattered with rocks mountains.  The ancient Indian build their temples and palace using local materials by cutting the stones.  There are over 300 temples in the area, most of them are destroyed and deserted, only a few survive.  The scale of the palace, the market, public bath, the royal bath is very impression.  Every building is connected by an aqua duct system.  The canal built in the ancient times are still used as water supplies by villagers.  The most spectacular view is the sun rise temple on the highest rock mountain.  We woke up 5a.m. to climb the mountain.  Unfortunately we were too slow and missed the sun rise by 15 minutes.  However, the view on top is so beautiful that it still worth the 600 steps hike up the ancient stairs carved out from the rocks.

Ruin of the palace Wake up at 5a.m. to watch sun rise Water temple. The royal water tank.

We don’t plan ahead of time, but the weekend we visit Hampi is also the birthday of the monkey god.  There is a big festival going on in the only functional temple in the area.  Villagers nearby all come to the temple to celebrate.  Indian festival is very interesting. Hundreds of men and boys will pull a 6-7 stores high chariot down the street.  The temple elephant will also come out and give blessing to people.  You just have to drop coins into its trunk, it will give the coin to its master then laid its trunk on your head.

Indians are pulling the huge chariot Holy elephant is giving out blessing Temple kids' band

Hampi is very clean compare to other Indian cities.  There ain’t any garbage on the street.  The people are poor but they seem to live a happy simple life.  There are not many hawkers nor people asking for money.  The villages are generally very nice and kind.  Probably many of them never see foreigners, they want to take photos with you.  The little kids are especially energetic, they will follow you around with their curious little eyes.  Mark is trying to teach high-five to the little kids.  Maybe a few years from now, high-five would be the coolest gesture in Indian.

Villagers lining up for photo Kids with sling shots Rice field with straight stones Kids in a village

Hampi is the kind of India experience I was expecting.  Seeing the ruins of an ancient civilization and having close encounter with people living in peaceful poor villages.  I am glad I sign up for this trip, it is a pleasant surprise.  If there is one thing I have to complain, it’s the heat.  It’s over 35 degree under the sun in the afternoon.  We have to start our sight early in the morning and retire to the hotel swimming pool in the afternoon.